It had been over 2 weeks since we left Bart’s hunting cabin
on January 3rd.The last week
had been less than exciting, which we appreciated.The fishing had picked up but was still hit or
miss.The weather was excellent for a
change.We had spent a few nights
camping and a few days resting at a houseboat on Lake Monroe.But now we had returned to the cabin 17 days
later and still 125 miles from the end.The thrill of adventure and the unknown gone. As we opened the door to the cabin, the wooden
picnic table caught my eye and one of our earlier conversations replayed
instantly.We were at the table eating
dinner speculating on the duration of the trip.The thought of finishing 310 miles in 20 days seemed hysterical
now.It had been an adventure of
marathon proportions but we needed to go faster.We needed to sprint to the finish line.
Mostly private property after Lake Harney, camping becomes a challenge
One of the best days of fishing at the mouth of the Econ River
Great day at the Econ above Jolly Gator Fish Camp, where we stayed later that night. Pic: Bart Swab
The extended forecast told us we had about 10 days to get
this trip done before the weather changed for the worse.We would be vulnerable during this portion of
the trip.The river was a mile wide in
places and didn’t provide much shelter from the wind.We would also be dealing with strong tides
each day and tricky currents near Jacksonville, FL.Early in the trip, there had been days when the
water was so rough, we lost sight of each other during lake crossings.Being anywhere near the shipping lanes or the
inlet in bad weather was not a good idea.We had to take advantage of the favorable conditions we were
experiencing now.
Why Knot Houseboat on Lake Monroe - Great location (link at bottom)
Fishing was outstanding on Lake George. Eventually we had to leave the fish biting and cover the 10 miles remaining
Camping wasn’t an option any longer.The added weight of the camping gear, food and
water slowed us down too much.We spent
the last night at Bart’s cabin figuring out the logistics to shuttle vehicles
for the remainder of our trip.At 9pm,
Bart loaded his kayak along with most of our camping gear and drove to his home
in St. Augustine, FL.The next morning, Ben
and I would meet him at the Palatka boat ramp to begin the final push to Huguenot Memorial Park outside Jacksonville, FL.
Crossing Lake George - we were very fortunate to find it like this - glass
Satsuma area before AirBnB
AirBnB that Ben secured was very nice and right on the river - great location (link at bottom)
It was dark when we beached the kayaks at Shands Bridge Pier.The 31-mile journey had taken 12 hours with a
few, unexpected breaks to fish. The daily
grind left us exhausted but feeling enthusiastic about our progress.We had covered 65 miles in 3 days.However, the mood wasn’t optimistic.Bart had a different expression on his face,
one of concern and discomfort.
Foggy start to the day
Alligator gar sight fished during our 31 mile day. I had crossed a bay and came on a shallow point. I thought it was a redfish from the swirl and cast in front of it.
Bart’s neck was hurting the next morning but he felt like he
could give it a go.We checked the tidal
charts and ran the shuttle knowing our distance from this point in the trip
would be severely impacted by Bart’s ability to continue.We parked a second vehicle at Black Creek
Marina in case we couldn’t make the 15 miles planned.
Dave Hernandez from St Augustine Paddle Sports ran the shuttle on our 31 mile float. Not having to drop a vehicle was super helpful- Thx Dave! (Facebook link below)
Unable to make the mileage and uncertain about the rest of
the trip we pulled into Black Creek Marina just before 2pm.Bart’s injury forced him off the water early
that day and potentially ended the journey all together. Not being from the area, we discussed
different options that allowed me to finish on my own but we agreed, it was
important to complete this journey together.There was another option - Bart would have to complete the final 50
miles in his pedal kayak.
This bird got a little too close to this Manatee
Two days past before we could get on the water again.As forecasted, the weather was beginning to
change.The mornings started calm but
each afternoon the winds would increase to 15 mph.The Lower St Johns is very expansive after
Palatka, FL and the resulting wind-blown seas can get treacherous.
Big water near Palatka, FL
Just after Shands bridge pier
It happened in a matter of 15 minutes, maybe less.We had covered 7 miles using the many boat
docks to avoid the North winds when it went completely calm.Our planned exit for the day was on the east
bank, but we had launched on the west bank.The idea was to move up the west side and cross the river where it was
the narrowest.We didn’t make it.The winds shifted from the east and the
resulting seas made it impossible to continue or cross.#LakeWashingtoneffect was intense but it was
nothing like the swells coming from the starboard side.We got permission to make an emergency exit
at a private landing.They asked us not
to mention them or their location.
Private launch that was very friendly but not an option for kayaks
Shooting docks
The next morning, we crossed the river and got on the east
side before the winds made it impossible.Again, we had plan “A” and plan “B”.The first was to make it to Goodbys boat ramp. If we made it there and felt good, we would
run another shuttle.However, we would
need permission from a property owner because the next public launch was 15
miles away.Well, the second part of the
plan wasn’t a solid option.The day
ended at Goodbys.Only 30 miles remained
between us and our goal of kayaking the entire St Johns River.
Leaving Goodbys headed to Jax
Arriving into Jax
Downtown Jacksonville was a fun ride.We dodged the bridge pilings and ran under
the various trestles.The current from
the falling tide was really strong.It
would push and pull the kayak in a way that reminded me of a plane landing on a
runway with the sudden shimmy and shake that makes you grip the seat a little
tighter.
The landscape changed one last time after Jacksonville marking
our final approach.Cargo ships and
military vessels were on both sides of the St Johns River. Once the steady drone of airboats was endless
but now the buzz of helicopters repeatedly circled overhead.My mind started to drift and recall things previously
forgotten. I couldn’t help but laugh at
the time Ben screamed out as an alligator exploded beside his kayak or the
morning he spilled boiling water on his tent before anyone had a cup of
coffee.It’s funny now but on those
freezing mornings, Bart refused to get out of his tent until someone filled his
mug with warm coffee.
The end of 310 miles
Then there was the
day we had to stop and reload Bart’s kayak in Lake Monroe because it was
listing to the port side badly.There was
so much to be thankful for as we hit the beach for the last time, but mostly I’m
thankful to have shared this experience with two friends who will remind me of
all the things I did that made them laugh and the great memories
we shared.
Ever have a bad experience and questioned how you ended up in it? I recently got caught in a storm while kayaking in Felsenthal National Wildlife Refuge. I was unable to get off the water before the storm hit. As I was sheltering at the base of a tree and lightening was crackling all around me, I questioned how I ended up in it.
Felsenthal NWR a 65,000-acre wildlife enthusiast's playground. If getting "off-the-grid" is what you seek this is the place for you. No cell phone service, limited public access, no homes, no ranger stations. It's a maze of sloughs, swamps, lakes, rivers, creeks and lowland bottoms. It's called a "refuge" because there is little to no human contact or development once you're out there.
Video of the event
Last week I ran into a large group of big gar in the refuge. Of course I caught a small one. I watched as a huge gar followed but rejected my offering, leaving me with a bad case of gar fever. I spent the better part of Saturday afternoon researching gar flies then tying a few for Sunday's trip.
The weather has been sketchy around here for a day or two. Occasionally a storm will blow up and run its course quickly. I knew the chances of a small storm existed when I drove to the launch Sunday afternoon. In fact, I turned around at the launch and drove 8 miles back to the highway because I hadn't checked the latest forecast. Good news, nothing was showing on the radar and the hourly forecast suggested a small chance of rain around 6 pm leaving me 5 hours to fish, worst case.
Waiting it out
It took about an hour to paddle the 3 miles to the area I knew held gar. They were still there and popping on top. I hooked several, including a 4 footer, but landed none. Ironically, I was thinking this blog post would center around the challenge of catching gar on the fly. In the excitement, I didn't notice how the clouds began to change (the video shows a clear change) around 4:30 pm. At 5 pm, I heard the thunder and realized I was in trouble. I was an hours paddle away in good conditions...
Early afternoon well before thunderstorm
The conditions went bad quickly. A strong southern wind hit me first. It was cool and refreshing in the 95F temperature. I welcomed it and secretly thought it might aid in my return. It was at my back as I was paddling north. It didn't last. A moment later and a strong northern wind slowed my progress. The water got choppy and I was now paddling into a 15-20 mph headwind. The cypress trees were swaying back and forth. I was wearing a self-inflatable pfd. Meaning you have to be conscious to activate it. I started worrying about being knocked unconscious from a falling tree branch. I made a make shift auto inflate pull from my dog leash by attaching it to the lever and locking it. If I was knocked out of the kayak the hope was the dog leash would activate the pfd. I'm in trouble...
Looking south, clear sky at 4 pm
Looking same direction as above, clouds building ~4:30. All I saw was the gar pop on top.
Looking north, clouds building ~4:30 pm
I was about half way when I saw a cloud to ground lightning strike. I'm not going to make it. It was time to find refuge. I pulled up on a small island and took shelter below a small cluster of trees. The lightning grew more intense. It was all around me. Then a explosion sent me to the ground. My ears were ringing as a lightening strike had been really close. I needed a plan. I had no idea how long it would last, so at the first lull in the storm I jumped back in the kayak and made a break for it. It wasn't meant to be...
Not going to out run this. Trouble at 5:15. The lightning started soon after and I left the water
The lightning continued. The wind picked back up. I crossed the refuge and beached the kayak. It would be safer to run out than paddle out. I've completed 9 marathons, I run regularly, but I've never run that hard. My lungs felt like they were bleeding, the burning was deep inside. I didn't stop or slow down.
The line from upper right corner to lower left corner passed over me. Got out just in time.
It was a good decision. Weathering the storm would have been a mistake. It lasted 3 hours. I returned and made my way back to my kayak once the lightning stopped. During those hours and over the following day, I had time to think about my situation. Here's what I came up with.
Pro's or what I think I did right:
Float plan:
Let someone know where you're going. I sent a text to my wife with my launch location. I was confident she would have alerted someone if I didn't return that night. She has done as much before.
Stay calm:
In any stressful situation one of the most important things you can do is remain calm and stay in control of your emotions. I could have freaked out and paddled like crazy through the storm. However, I've heard more stories of people being killed on the water trying to out run a storm then people who sheltered and waited for it to pass.
Evaluate the risk:
I went out knowing there was a risk of thunderstorms during the afternoon. I checked several times before getting on the water. Later, as the storm ran its course I had to re-evaluate the risk of staying or moving. Eventually I decided to move and run out during a brief break in the lightning. The storm seemed to be growing and I could hear more thunder in the distance.
Keep thinking, evaluating, and adjusting:
The situation was very fluid. In the beginning, I though I was going to make it back to my truck. When the lightning started I knew I needed to find shelter and get off the water. I wanted to be on dry ground. Not on the water sheltering under a giant tree that might fall on me or be a lightning magnet. There are large trees all over the refuge that were obviously struck by lightning. Finding hard ground in the refuge is not easy. Being familiar with the area was a huge benefit and I'll talk about that next. As time passed I sensed this storm wasn't going to pass quickly. It wasn't a summer storm like I had hoped. But there were waves and after each was a small opening. After 40 minutes in the storm I decided to move during one of these openings. Again, the situation was fluid. The opening I choose didn't last long enough for me to get back. However, I was now close enough to leave the kayak and run out. It was both quicker and safer to run than paddle. Again, knowing the area was huge!
Know the area:
Like I mentioned earlier, being familiar with the area was really important. First because it helped me get back safely. Secondly, not feeling lost and being confident on my location reduced stress in a stressful environment. It made it possible to keep moving in the storm. Even if you're not on home water you should always take note of prominent landmarks. You never know if you'll need them later.
Shoes:
I stopped wearing flip flops on the water 2 years ago. Primarily because I do a lot of solo kayaking and felt like if I ever found myself in a bad situation I'd want real footwear. I was happy I had shoes on when I was running through the refuge.
Cons or things I know I did wrong:
Gear:
A weather radio would have been helpful but I'm confident I could have avoided the situation. More on that next.
Also, in my opinion a manual inflatable PFD isn't ideal in a storm. When the winds kicked up to 20 mph the trees started swaying and cracking All those downed trees I saw as bass habitat, I had a different picture in my head now. Being hit by a falling tree or branch and knocked unconscious became a real concern. I'll keep a traditional PFD in my kayak in the future.
I didn't have any foul weather gear. A simple rain suit would have made things more comfortable when the temperature dropped to 73f.
Pay attention to your surroundings:
Being honest, I got fish brain and it cost me. I failed to notice the clouds changing in the distance (sequence of pics above show the change). Looking at the video there was an obvious change in the weather. If I had paid more attention to the conditions I would have been closer to the boat ramp when I heard the thunder and ultimately off the water before the storm.
Over rate your abilities:
No matter how confident you are in your kayaking abilities you will never out run a storm. Don't let your mind convince you otherwise. I was sure I could get back even after I saw it bearing down on me. In fact, I hesitated and questioned if the storm was moving in my direction or going to be a near miss. If you can see it, start moving to safety, and move with a purpose. Lesson learned, the hard way.
That's all. Hope some of this helps someone avoid repeating my experience. It wasn't fun.
It's silly hot outside, but that's not what's keeping me from fishing. All the rain that fell in MO and North AR had a huge impact locally and on the trout waters. In short, the lakes in the northern part of the state are high...which means lots of generation. No kayaking on the Little Red or the White.
favorite SMB fly's
Felsenthal NWR, which is my local water was also high, not now, BUT...it's located in the southeast part of the state...you know what they say...S$#t rolls down hill. And I don't have time to travel. So...
This weekend, not putting my kayak in that!
Should look like this but Sh1t rolls south
It's time to start training for my next marathon, up to 39 miles this week. Gonna run the Tulsa Route 66 marathon in November, this will be my 8th state (10th total)...hope to cross off all 50. Obviously, I'll be fishing those states as I travel through them (so you want to subscribe to my blog to see cool stuff). Running and fishing through 50 states...that's the plan! I like running in the heat...but I stay on the trails and bring the camelbak. Earlier, I said it was silly hot, I really meant STUPID hot. I'm an idiot for running in this, but I do dumb things when I can't fish...
If your running in the afternoon in July or August, stay near water and in the shade!
After I run, I bang out a few patterns. Hoping to cash in on hopper season. I know it's getting close when the grasshoppers start bouncing off my legs when I run...starting to happen! Plenty of high water....get'n excited. Put a few of my favorite SMB patterns at the top. The popper is on it's last leg, literally. Its been money early and late.
Fish'n is in the forecast...check back in to see how it goes (road trip planned). In parting, I want to say....the cubs got "no hit" yesterday but I'm a Cubs fan for life. Go Cubbies!!
Spent part of the week getting my old aluminum boat ready for summer. I don't use it as much as I should, once or twice a month in the summer. My dad bought it in 1990 and took me and my brother to the lake every Sunday.
He was a single father with 2 boys and didn't have extra cash for boats and such. You can imagine what kind of trouble 2 boys can get into and I'm sure he was saving his extra pennies for bail. It was August, we were suppose to go shopping for school clothes but we ended up at Arts Marine in North Little Rock, AR instead. Me and my brother climbed up in this new boat and fell in love. I was fooling with the trolling motor, working a big bass from some thick cover. My brother was imagining himself kneeboarding. Of course it wasn't going to happen, Dad had saved for clothes not boats. We left disappointed but in full negotiation mode. We knew he had cash for our clothes and knew the price of the boat. It wasn't long until we informed him we didn't have a need for new clothes. I mean seriously, we were 3 guys living on our own. We wanted a boat and to be camping and fishing every weekend. At the time, I couldn't imagine being with a girl that didn't fish...so a boat over labels made perfect sense to a 13 year old. Boy was I wrong...none of the girls in my life fish...NONE!
Like a good parent he didn't cave right away. I knew he wanted that boat too, but he had to be responsible. I'm sure he checked our clothing situation as he did the laundry. In the end, we wore holes in our old jeans and everything we owned smelled like a camp fire or fish b/c we ended up with a new 17 ft Alumacraft and it's been in the family ever since. It kept me out of trouble in high school. I was home early every Saturday night, and up early every Sunday morning.
It carried me, my brother, and dad around the lake for years. Several Lake Ouachita island camping trips. At least 1 trip to the Lake of the Ozarks in Missouri, where he got a ticket for pulling a skier w/o having someone old enough to spot. Guess why we never went back! Now it carries me and my family around the lake.
Couple baitfish patterns I tied last night - getting ready for SMB season.
It doesn't have that new boat smell anymore. Rather, it has a few leaks and shows its wisdom in every scratch. But I love it and consider it part of the family. Like any family member, it's far from perfect, but can't be replaced.
